Water-Based Inks Enhance the Sustainability of Textile Printing
Water-Based Inks Enhance the Sustainability of Textile Printing
The printing industry is undergoing a transformation toward sustainability. For decades, the sector has been associated with mass production, intensive resource consumption, and environmental challenges. In recent years, however, there has been a growing awareness of the need for sustainable development. This awareness has driven the adoption of new approaches that are reshaping how textiles are produced and processed, including within industrial printing.
Today, sustainability has become a buzzword—often used without a clear definition and frequently perceived as being at odds with economic success. In reality, sustainability and economic success are not contradictory. On the contrary, reorienting economies and markets is essential for long-term viability. After all, the world is facing major environmental and social challenges.
Many of our current economic practices have had devastating effects on the natural foundations of life. This also means that our present way of living undermines the prosperity of future generations, which runs counter to the goals of sustainable development. Examples include large-scale deforestation, overfishing, and the loss of fertile arable land. All of this demonstrates that we are still far from achieving a balance between social and economic needs and the regenerative capacity of the environment. Even more concerning, by 2050, the costs of climate-change impacts—along with biodiversity loss alone—could amount to roughly one quarter of global gross national product.
● Sustainability in the Textile Industry
The textile industry is a clear example of a sector shifting toward more sustainable models. Over the years, it has undergone a significant transformation driven by urgent sustainability requirements. This change is also evident across sub-sectors, including industrial printing. The convergence of economic, social, and environmental factors is shaping a new era in which sustainability is a fundamental requirement. The textile industry must meet these requirements to mitigate the severe consequences of global warming and other environmental challenges.
Sustainability has become a “megatrend,” defined as a global force with far-reaching impact. Achieving a balance between economic prosperity, social justice, and environmental protection is essential for both present and future generations.
The concept of sustainability has evolved since 1972, when the United Nations Conference on the Human Environment in Stockholm first examined the relationship between quality of life and environmental quality. In 1987, the term “sustainable development” entered mainstream discussion and was defined as “development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs” (Brundtland, 1987). Since then, sustainability has focused on balancing economic and social needs with the regenerative capacity of the natural environment.
● Sustainability and Economic Success Are Not Opposites
Overall, sustainable development should not be viewed as a sprint but as a marathon that requires the participation of governments, the private sector, and civil society alike. Focusing on the private sector, all stakeholders must recognize the importance of sustainability in serving the public interest. Sustainability must also be understood as a strategic vision for a viable future.
● The Textile Industry Accounts for 4% of Global Greenhouse Gas Emissions
● Impact of the Textile Industry
The textile industry is a major contributor to the global economy, accounting for about 2% of global GDP and employing hundreds of millions of people worldwide. At the same time, it faces severe sustainability challenges. Since 2005, rapid growth has driven increased production and consumption, fueled by (ultra-)fast fashion business models and an economy largely focused on linear systems that waste resources and are inherently unsustainable. Such linear and fast-fashion approaches have resulted in overproduction, resource depletion, and massive waste generation.
One of the most alarming statistics shows that the textile industry is responsible for 4% of global greenhouse gas emissions—approximately 2.1 billion tonnes. Without significant change, current trends suggest these emissions could increase by 50% by 2030. Waste levels are equally staggering: only about 75% of garments produced are sold, and just 1% of unsold clothing is recycled.
● Changing the Approach
To address these challenges, the industry is gradually moving toward sustainability, although progress remains slow and regulators are increasingly stepping in to accelerate change. New regulations—such as the EU Green Claims Directive, the Digital Product Passport (DPP), and Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR)—focus on production, product design, marketing, waste management, and reporting.
Some manufacturers and a growing number of consumers are also rethinking their approaches. Certain brands have begun reducing the number of fashion seasons, while consumers are becoming more environmentally conscious and extending the lifespan of textiles. For example, the value of the second-hand market is expected to double, reflecting a shift toward more sustainable and circular consumption models.
As consumer awareness of environmental issues grows, demand for sustainable practices across industries continues to rise. The textile industry, known for its heavy reliance on water, energy, and chemicals, faces intense pressure to adopt environmentally friendly practices. This shift is not merely a trend but a necessary evolution to reduce the environmental impact of textile production.
● Water-Based Pigment Inks
Sustainability in the textile industry extends to industrial printing operations. Adopting environmentally responsible practices is essential, particularly in areas such as ink production and use. Water-based pigment inks are gaining popularity due to their environmental benefits. Unlike solvent-based inks, they contain fewer harmful chemicals, generate less waste, and are easier to handle and dispose of responsibly.
Water-based pigment inks are especially effective on textiles made from natural fibers such as cotton and linen. They offer strong durability, continue to be improved through ongoing development, and comply with stringent environmental regulations.
● Water-Based Pigment Inks in Textile Printing
The textile printing industry is on the brink of a major transition. The market share of water-based pigment inks is rapidly surpassing that of traditional solvent-based inks. According to Smithers’ report, The Future of Water-Based and Solvent Printing to 2027 (published in December 2022), the water-based ink market is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5.6% through 2027. By contrast, the solvent-based ink market is projected to stagnate, with growth of only 1.3%. This shift marks a pivotal moment for textile printing and reflects the industry’s ongoing evolution toward greater sustainability and environmental responsibility.
● Technical Advantages
Water-based pigment inks are becoming the preferred choice for digital textile printing, particularly on natural fibers. Due to their inherent properties, these fibers exhibit excellent compatibility with water-based inks. Cotton, for example, is porous and has a capillary structure with accessible hydroxyl functional groups. These groups absorb water-based inks through hydrogen bonding, enabling deep penetration and excellent color saturation.
After printing, the fabric undergoes heat fixation, a process that ensures ink durability. During this step, moisture evaporates from the fabric, locking the colorants into the fibers. The result is vibrant, long-lasting prints that maintain their quality through washing and wear.
● Composition and Environmental Benefits
Water-based pigment inks are primarily composed of water, accounting for 50–80% of their formulation. This significantly reduces the need for volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which are common in solvent-based inks. Other components include binders (polymer resins) at 5–20%, humectants at 5–10%, dyes and pigments at 5–15%, surfactants at 1–5%, and preservatives at less than 1%.
The environmental benefits of water-based inks are substantial. Unlike solvent-based inks, they do not require large amounts of water or corrosive chemicals during production. In textile printing applications, water-based inks pose minimal risk to human health and the environment. Their lower VOC emissions make them a safer choice, particularly in regions with increasingly stringent environmental regulations, such as the European Union.
● Regulatory Drivers and Adoption
The growing adoption of water-based pigment inks is driven not only by their technical advantages but also by tightening environmental regulations. Concerns over VOC emissions and the environmental impact of industrial processes are increasing. Regulatory bodies in North America, Europe, and other regions are encouraging cleaner, more sustainable practices in textile finishing. With their lower environmental footprint, water-based inks align well with these emerging regulatory requirements.
In addition, the ease of handling and improved safety of water-based inks during printing make them an attractive option for manufacturers. It is important to note, however, that despite their environmental advantages, residual waste from water-based inks must still be handled properly. Compliance with local waste-disposal regulations is essential to fully realize their environmental benefits.
The textile industry stands at a crossroads, with sustainability emerging as a key driver of transformation. Industrial printing—an essential component of textile finishing—is making significant progress, including advancements that support more environmentally friendly practices. The shift toward water-based inks delivers high print quality on natural fibers while helping ensure a future in which textiles are both aesthetically appealing and sustainable. As the market continues to evolve, new standards for eco-friendly textile printing are being established.
More broadly, the textile industry—embedded within global value chains—must undergo a profound transformation to achieve sustainability goals. This requires rethinking every stage of production, from raw material extraction to finished products, and fostering collaboration across the entire industry. As polar explorer Robert Swan famously said: “The greatest threat to our planet is the belief that someone else will save it.” The responsibility for driving this change lies with every stakeholder in the textile industry.